01 - Here's how the H-75 comes to you.
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02 - Full size rolled plans, vacuformed canopy & engine cowl.
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03 - Plenty of high grade balsa, formers & ribs, CNC cut.
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04 - Take L1, the (join) and attach F5A, be sure it is perpendicular. This is the start of our crutch.
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05 - Next attach S3 (side sheet) to L1 (join) and F5A, be sure everything is square.
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06 - I decided to attach S5 to S2 (the other side) separate, It was easier for me to make sure the two pieces were perpendicular.
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07 - I then combined the two sides together and made sure that everything was squared properly.
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08 - Parts F6A and F6 both need to be laminated together first, be sure to use the two small guide holes to line up the parts. If in doubt, be sure to use a ruler to double check.
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09 - You can now attach the F6A/F6 laminated part to your L1 (join) crutch. Be sure again that the parts are square and that the F6 side is facing the TAIL, not inside toward the nose.
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10 - Now attach F1, be sure to look at the piece carefully, there is a left and right side to F1. Be sure that the thrust line of the fuse is maintained. Also, the end with a single hole should be high and the two holes on the bottom of the fuse when the fuse is sitting upright.
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11 - Now attach S4 to close out the bottom of the crutch. Also be sure to add the round former F2 and F3 on the sides of the fuse
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12 - Be sure to add F2B and F11 with the wing dowel hole to the bottom front of the fuse as shown.
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13 - Now finished adding F5 on both sided of the fuse, be sure that it is behind the small piece of the F5A that sticks out of the side sheets.
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14 - Now add F7, F8 and L6 to the bottom of the fues, you may find it helpful to install L6 first and then add F8, it made for a cleaner join of the two pieces when I did it this way.
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15 - Now add the plywood wing holding plate, be sure to use enough CA or glue to really hold this piece in place. You don't want your wing coming off in flight.
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16 - Now, this is very important and you may find that it is not in sequence with the instructions. But be sure to attach a 3mm piece of balsa cut to shape along the bottom of F6, F7, F8 and L6. The entire L1 (join) is laying flat and level right now, you will not get another chance to keep the tail plane level with the fuse. I've decided only to attach one piece for right now.
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17 - After attaching the bottom 3mm balsa, be sure to shape to match fuse and formers.
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18 - Turn the fuse right side up and attach F2A, F3A and F4A. Be sure they are all square and match up with the formers on both the right and left side.
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19 - Next attach F9, F10 and F8A. Be sure to look at the plans carefully to determine the angle of F9. I set mine at ## degrees.
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20 - Your fuses should look something like this when all the formers top and bottom are done.
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21 - Attach a piece of 3mm balsa across the top of F2A, F3A and F4A. Much like the one on the bottom rear of the fuse, this will help stiffen the fuse up and keep it's shape when planking later.
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22 - Next do the same across the top of F9, F10 and F8A. Be sure to shape to match the fuse and formers in shape.
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23 - Next use the templates provided to cut out and attach the planking. I did the left side first and left the right side off for this example. Be sure to install the push rod tube now, it will be near impossible later.
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24 - Using the same templates provided on the plan, I finished off the right hand side after checking the pushrod tube.
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25 - Add two more pieces of 3mm balsa to finish off the top of the fuse behind the cockpit. Make sure to feather out the edged and bring to a point near the tail.
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26 - Add a second (for a total of 2) piece of 3mm balsa to finish off shaping the bottom rear fuse. Be sure to check back with the plans for reference on how to properly shape the fuse.
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27 - Laminate the two S1 pieces together with S2 to make the main spar. Be sure to check for proper alignment.
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28 - Next attach the S1/S2 main spar to S4 by attaching the ribs W1B x 2 , W1C x 2, W2b x 2. And the S1/S2 main spar to S5 by attaching the ribs W1A x 2. Run the main 4mm mid stringer and also attach S3 x 2 to create the small finger holes.
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29 - Attach the supplied 3 out of 4 pieces of W1D to create a laminated part to accept the wing dowel. Then use W1E on the left and right side to close off both sides. Attach to S5 in the middle per plan.
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30 - Next attach all the remaining ribs W3, W4, W5, W6 and W7. I then attached the false leading edge while everything was pinned to the plan to insure proper alignment.
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31 - I next used the template provided on the plan to create the wing bolt plate on the trailing edge of the wing.
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32 - I wanted to add the trailing edge strip next, but found it easier to plank the bottom and mark the inside of the planking with reference lines where the trailing edge of the ribs should line up.
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33 - Just letting the fuse sit on the wing, looks more like a Hawk now!
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34 - Cut out the ailerons (I find it easier to do this before sheeting the top). And insert the blocks between the four ribs.
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35 - I found it significantly easier to cut out the finger holds on the bottom of the wing when I didn't plank the top first.
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36 - I opted to install a separate servo for each aileron, this is not per plan but a personal preference of mine. Ran the servo extensions and cut appropriate slots for the wires to run from the ailerons to the center of the wing.
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37 - Finished off the top of the wing by sheet planking it, shaped and sanded as necessary. Left a small in the center of the wing to allow the servo wires to run through.
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38 - Attached the leading edge and sanded to shape. Used a contour sanding block to get the rounded leading edge shape consistently across the entire length of the wing on both sides.
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39 - There are two pieces of balsa that make up both the right and left wing tips. Evenly applied glue across the entire surface and laminated both sets for the tips.
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40 - Next attached each wing tip set to both the right and left side of the wing making sure to leave an equal amount of balsa on the top and bottom on both sides. Just need to dry fit the ailerons and mark off some lines before sanding the block down to it's final shape.
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41 - Built up the left and right ailerons and did a dry fit with tape holding them in place.
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42 - Final sanding of the wing tips to make sure they line up with and are the proper thickness next to the ailerons.
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43 - Installed the bottom two pieces that make up the support for the rear fillets. Will leave the final sanding until the rear right and left fillets are attached.
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44 - Cut out the rear left and right fillets using the supplied templates on the plan and glued them in place. Sanded to shape and feathered out the point which them come in contact with the fuse.
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45 - Plane is now ready for the two front fillets, the fuse is now starting to take a more finished look.
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46 - Front fillets are now done, next to just add some scrap balsa in front of them and sand them to a nice point.
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47 - Used some scrap balsa to build up and then sand down the two front leading edge fillets. Now to move onto the tail.
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48 - I joined the front and rear of the rudder assemble then attached it to the stab at a 90 degree angle. After which I attached it to the fuse (checking for level) and used some scrap balsa to make two small fillets.
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49 - Next I mixed some 30 minute epoxy with denatured alcohol and covered the entire fuse and tail assembly. I let everything dry over night and lightly sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.
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50 - Started to cover the rear of the fuse and am working forward, here you see the rudder and rear fuse covered.
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51 - I intend to leave a few panels natural (semi polished) and the rest I'm scuffing up with a scouring pad. Also went ahead and started on the panel lines and rivets.
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52 - Going a bit slow, but worth it, the left side of the fuse is almost done.
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53 - The fuse is pretty much finished, just need to attach the elevators and engine cowl after covering it properly. The canopy is just sitting on the fuse for right now.
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54 - Here's a little more detail on the panel lines and rivets.
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55 - Now a look at the tail, if you look closely you can make out the alternating finish on the stabilizer, some panels are polished others are ruffed up.
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56 - And a close up of the canopy with rivets, I may need to trim down the bottom right and left side of the canopy. I haven't decided if I want to make the canopy working or fixed.
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57 - Made a little progress on the wings, the larger pieces of the metal covering was actually harder to handle and work with than the smaller pieces on the fuse.
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58 - But all in all she's looking nice. Still need to finish off the wing tips, but took a break from the wings and did a little work on the cowl.
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59 - A close up of the wing, left a small section polished.
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60 - Here's a shot of the wing from above.
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