Build Articles
K & A - MIG-15 EDF (Part 1)
By Carl Tulanko
October 15, 2006 - 08:18:48 PM

01 - K&A Models MIG-15 EDF as it comes from Markos at Warbirds-RC	02 - The MIG was well packed from the maufacturer and Warbirds-RC. It comes in two versions, the Basic version or the Deluxe Pre-Primed version with Pre-sheeted wings, clear canopy and more for a small additional charge. The Deluxe version is shown below and worth it	03 - Pre-Sheeted wings come with the Deluxe Pre-Primed Kit and are well worth the few extra dollars
04 - You also get a clear canopy with the Primed kit	05 - The lumber that comes with the model is of very good quality	06 - Construction begins with the wings. As these wings were presheeted, several steps were eliminated. A 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip is sanded flush with the correct angle at the wing tip leading edge. Make sure you hold the strip centered across the leading edge of the wing
07 - Hole the tip flush and make a mark on the balsa strip slightly longer than the inside root of the wing	08 - Cut the excess from the balsa strip at the mark you made	09 - Photo shows the strip flush with the wing tip to the left and centered down the leading edge

10 - The second wing is prepared by sanding the tip angle on the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip	11 - Strip must be kept centered while sanding and when gluing	12 - The second strip is marked about 1/4" from the root of the wing
13 - The excess is removed from the balsa strip	14 - Prepare several pieces of masking tape around 3" long that will be used to hold the balsa strip in place. About eight pieces per wing will work fine	15 - Wings, leading edge 1/4" x 1/2" strips and wing tips ready to glue
16 - Some 15-30 minute Epoxy is applied to the leading edge of the wing and the inside of the balsa strip	17 - The strip is positioned over the leading edge and excess epoxy is removed	18 - Use the tape strips to hold the balsa leading edge strip in place. Make sure it is flush with the wing tip end and centered along the leading edge on both the top and bottom

19 - Make sure the leading edge is flush with the wing tip root, then apply epoxy to the wing tip area	20 - Apply epoxy to the Wing Tip balsa stock	21 - The balsa wing tip is positioned and excess epoxy is removed. Make sure you position the wing tip block in the correct direction, with the shallow curve toward the front as shown
22 - Use long pieces of masking tape to hold the wing tip block in place. Make sure the block is centered with both the top and bottom of the wing and also make sure it is flush with the leading edge as shown on the right side	23 - Epoxy is applied to the second wing leading edge and balsa strip. Keep the strip centered down the wing leading edge and flush with the outside tip, then clean the excess epoxy and tape the strip in place	24 - Epoxy is applied to the wing tip area of the wing
25 - Epoxy is applied to the wing tip block and the block is positioned as shown with the shallow curve forward	26 - The wing tip and leading edge shown with masking tape in place	27 - Both wings are waiting for the epoxy to set

28 - Epoxy has set and tape has been removed so the wing can be shaped	29 - Making a sanding board...I used three sheets of 100 grit sandpaper and taped them at the seams, then trimmed the excess tape flush to the outer ends	30 - The long sheet of sandpaper was taped to a two dollar shelf board that is very flat. Only use duct tape as it is the only one that will stick to the sandpaper
31 - Hold the wing with both hands and shape the leading edge...it will go surprisingly fast and the board helps keep your sanding perfectly even across the wing	32 - Initial sanding of leading edge spar now flush with the wing top	33 - Once both sides are done, you can drag the wing across the sandpaper toward you and rotate the wing rear up to make an even leading edge curve
34 - Shaped leading edge completed	35 - The excess spar at the wing root is sanded down. Stop just short of it becoming flush so there is enough spar to finish sand	36 - Finish sanding the root tip by dragging the root across the sandpaper

37 - Wing tip spar is completed	38 - Excess wing tip block is carved away using a large hobby knife. Be careful to not cut too deep and leave some excess to sand	39 - The sanding board and a sanding block as shown are used to shape the wingtip block
40 - Wingtip Block shaped on top and bottom	41 - Wing tip shown shaped to the chord	42 - The trailing edge is sanded on both sides to a taper of 1/16"
43 - Trailing edge completed	44 - The seams of the wing sheets are sanded flush. Check and sand the seams on both sides	45 - The first wingtip is cut to shape after the trailing edge is finished

46 - Center marks are made along the outside edge of the wing tip	47 - A center line is drawn through the marks...this is the line you will sand to when tapering each side	48 - A sanding block is used to taper and shape the wing tip
49 - The second side is sanded to the line and shaped	50 - Keep dusting while you sand to make sure you are sanding straight	51 - Wing Tip taper completed
52 - Another view of the shaping that was done to the wing tip	53 - The second wing is sanded just like the first, starting with shaping the leading edge	54 - The bottom leading edge has been shaped to the contour of the wing

55 - The top leading edge is shaped the same way. Check it often to make sure you are sanding evenly across the wing	56 - Leading edge shaping shown completed	57 - Sand down the root tip flush to the wing
58 - Root tip finished	59 - Carve away the large portion of the balsa tip so there is less to sand later. Be careful not to over trim	60 - The tip is sanded on both sides to the contour of the wing
61 - The trailing edge is again sanded to a 1/16" taper	62 - Next the seams are sanded flush	63 - Seams on the bottom of the wing are sanded

64 - The finished wing is placed evenly over the second wing and a sanding block is used to shape the trailing edge	65 - Both Wing Tip trailing edges should match	66 - A center line is drawn down the second wing tip
67 - Both sides of the wing tip are tapered and shaped to the line	68 - Fine sandpaper is used for final shaping of the tip	69 - Wing tip shaping completed
70 - Top view of the wing to show final shape	71 - Carefully cut out the Aileron Template	72 - A piece of brass square was used as a straight edge and placed flush against the bottom of the wing. The template is placed flush against the square and then spaced 1/4" to the inside of the wingtip seam. Position the template with the narrow end toward the wing tip, then draw the Aileron shape on the wing

73 - Aileron shape shown drawn on the wing	74 - Using a straight edge and a very sharp hobby knife, carefully cut out the Aileron. Be sure to hold the knife perpendicular to the wing so you do not cut down at an angle	75 - Aileron shown cut from wing
Keep the knife square and cut 1/8" from the front of the Aileron	The Aileron is lightly sanded flush	The 1/16" x 1/2" wide balsa strip is slightly angled to fit the wing
Use the strip to cut three pieces to sheet the inside of the wing in the Aileron well. Do not glue yet	The second wing half is marked 1/4" from the seam for template position	A vertical line is drawn to help align the template

The template is flipped and used to marke the Aileron cutout. Be sure to keep the smaller end toward the wing tip	Template shape transfered to the wing	Once again, use a fresh blade and an straightedge to cut out the Aileron. Keep the blade perpendicular when cutting and make several shallow passes
A ruler helps keep the line nice and straight	Second Aileron cut from wing	the 1/16" x 1/2" balsa strip is once again cut to box in the Aileron area of the wing
Pieces shown cut , fitted and ready to glue	Fifteen minute epoxy was used to mount the balsa strips	Epoxy shown being applied to the Aileron area of the wing

Next, epoxy is applied to the ends of each Aileron and balsa strips are cut for small Aileron end caps	End cap strips shown installed and held in place with masking tape	Second Aileron is prepped for end cap strips
End cap positioned and secured with tape	Once the glue has set, carefully remove all the masking tape. Sand the end caps on the Ailerons to match the shape	Carefully shave off the larger portion of balsa with a hobby knife
The strips are sanded flush to the wing	The other wing is sanded flush, top and bottom	You have the choice of using either Easy Hinges for Aileron mounts, or an alternate method. Heavy duty 1/8" pin hinges are shown. To install, marks are made 3/4" from each end of the Aileron well for hinge location

The middle pin location is measured dead center. All locations shown	A center mark is made on the wing	Once you have the three centerlines drawn, a pencil is slightly pushed into the balsa at each location to start the mounting holes
All three holes prepared to drill	Start the bit straight down, then drill at an angle parallel to the side	The second wing is marked
Cross lines are drawn next to the center marks	The pencil is used once again to start the holes, then they are drilled	The Aileron is placed and centered in the wing, then pin locations are transfered. Use a knife to cut out a 1" wide hole in the foam

The foam is removed with a hook tool	Make a balsa block tapered to fit the opening. This is done at each pin location to add strength to the area	The 1/2" wide block is installed and sanded flush to the Aileron
Photo shows all three blocks fitted and ready to glue	The blocks are removed and 5 minute epoxy is applied and the blocks installed flush. If you get too much epoxy, the blocks may hydraulic on you during installation and not sit completely in place, so push them in a bit deeper and the excess epoxy should squeeze out the top sides. Clean excess epoxy with a paper towel	The second Aileron is being prepared and blocks are glued
Next, apply 15 minute epoxy to the Aileron face and strip	The strips are mounted to the face and held in place with masking	Hinge pins are installed in the wing for fit. A Hinge with Horn is used on the inside mount

The long front strip is sanded flush to to the Aileron	The ends are sanded flush	Ailerons ready to shape
Fit of Aileron in wing opening shown, about 1/32" space on each side	Center marks are made on the Aileron	A center line is drawn
Hinge mark locations are drawn. Make sure it is centered on the ends	Cross lines are drawn at the hinge pin locations	Holes are started with pencil point

Hinge holes are drilled with a 1/8" bit at each location. Test fit in the fuselage often to check for mis-alignment or binding	Ruler is placed along each side of the horn and marks are made	Hinge and location marks shown
Carefully sand a taper to center on the Aileron	Angle shown sanded and centered	Hinges are installed as well as the Aileron Note the areas cut away for the hinges, which allows center pivot at the Aileron
Aileron installed	Underside of wing, showing nice clean horn installation	The second Aileron is drilled for hinges

Holes are shown drilled down the center	The end pin needs to be shortened to fit	Sand an angle on the leading edge of the Aileron. Sand to the center line
A slot is cut for the hinge with the horn	The hinge is fit to the Aileron	Use a hobby knife to cut slots for hinge movement
The back of the slots are cut with a sharp knife	install the Aileron in the wing and check for fit and movement	Photo of the horn as seen from the bottom

A ruler is used to draw a line for horn to servo alignment	Two 1/8" square harwood sticks were installed in the wing Aileron wire runs and a yardstick was placed against these runs, then a line was drawn to indicate the path of the wires	Photo shows yardstick parallel to and against the wood sticks
Use a receiver or device to center the servo	One side of the servo horn is removed