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Last Updated: January 10, 2008 - 09:28:40 PM |
01- The HET-RC Sniper double boxed as it arrives from Warbirds-RC
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02 - Front label shows a picture and specification.
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03 - The package, in good shape with no shipping problems.
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04 - Inside the box reveals a well packed kit, typical of HET-RC.
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05 - The components include a fiberglass fuselage, two wing halves, a horizontal stab, canopy, hardware bag and decals.
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06 - Wing sections and stab come pre-covered in plastic covering, note though that the control surfaces are not yet glued.
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07 - Hardwood plates support the wing mountings holes.
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08 - The leading edge of this semi-symmetrical wing is shaped well.
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09 - The intake duct work is made from glass, it's not super smooth, but has been finished well.
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10 - Tow hook location is beefed up inside. I noticed all the mounting points for the wing, tow hook and tail feathers have hardwood supports epoxied in place inside... a nice touch.
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11 - Hardware package should include the following:
3 Horns
6 Horn mounting screws
3 Clevis'
4 Wing / Tail mounting bolts & washers
3 Control rods
1 Tow hook
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12 - Another nice feature is the aileron servo wire exit holes, which have been pre-made.
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13 - The build begins with the elevator hinges removed in order to mark the center lines.
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14 - Hinges are inserted up to the line inside the horizontal stab. They are placed with their left side 3/8" and 3" away from the end joint.
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15 - Thin CA glue is used to mount the hinges... it will "wick" into the joint.
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16 - Horizontal stab with hinges installed.
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17 - The elevator is installed on the stab. Make sure it is evenly spaced from the tip on both sides before gluing.
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18 - Elevator is moved downward before gluing, allowing it to pull away a bit from the stab so it won't bind during use.
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19 - Elevator installed on stab and glued in place. Once again, make sure the ends are evenly spaced, then use thin CA to attach the elevator.
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20 - Marking center lines for the aileron hinges .
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21 - Hinges are installed 1/2" from each side.
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22 - Hinge is glued in place and aileron is shown being installed.
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23 - Aileron installed.
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24 - Aileron flexed downward to have it space itself slightly away from the trailing edge of the wing for freedom of movement .
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25 - Next, the aileron is glued in place with thin CA.
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26 - The second wing half showing hinges installed.
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27 - Using a Q-Tip makes a nice cleanup tool for excess thin CA.
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28 - Aileron fitted to second wing half.
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29 - Once again, the aileron is flexed to space it from the trailing edge.
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30 - Second aileron glued in place.
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31 - Preparing the power plant.
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32 - 3.5mm plugs are installed on the motor.
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33 - A piece of hardwood makes a good plug holder.
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34 - Filling the cup with solder.
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35 - Motor lead and plug are heated, then the lead is pushed down in place.
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36 - All three leads connected.
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37 - Adding heat shrink to the plugs.
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38 - Motor assembly completed.
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39 - Preparing to assemble the MiniFan480, the shaft adapter is slotted at the tip so a screwdriver can be used later to help tighten the nut.
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40 - Shaft adapter slotted.
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41 - Heat the shaft adapter with a torch... a hair dryer or heat gun can be used as an alternative.
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42 - Heating the shaft is necessary as it is slightly undersized on purpose to insure a tight fit to the motor shaft.
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43 - Loktite is used on the setscrew.
WARNING - Not not allow any Loktite to come in contact with any part of the fan.
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44 - Set screws are installed in the shaft adapter and tightened.
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45 - Use a Q-Tip to clean off all excess Loktite.
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46 - Install the motor in the fan shroud.
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47 - The screws that come with the Mini480 fan are 2.5mm, so you will need some 3mm bolts to mount the motor to the shroud.
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48 - 3mm bolts used to secure the motor.
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49 - A sanding wheel opens up the plastic spacer ring so it will fit over the motor.
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50 - Ring checked for fit.
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51 - Ring slipped over the rear of the motor.
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52 - The ring is seated flush with the rear of the shroud.
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53 - Important: Check to make sure the shaft base protrudes at least 1/64" from the fan shroud face, as shown by the pencil. If not spaced correctly, the rear of the fan unit will rub the shroud once it is installed. If you need clearance, remove the motor, loosen the shaft set screws, heat up the shaft and pull it out a bit. Then reinstall and check again.
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54 - Fan is installed on the shaft
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55 - Followed by a washer included in the fan kit.
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56 - Next, the aluminum nut is installed.
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57 - Here is where the slot you made earlier comes in to play. Using a screwdriver in the slot to hold the shaft, tighten the fan unit.
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58 - Hub and retaining bolt installation is optional. You can run the fan without the hub with almost very low loss in power
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59 - Fan assembly completed.
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60 - VERY IMPORTANT: Please make sure there is no rubbing or binding between the fan rotor and the fan shroud. Now would be a good time to check, if the rotor does not spin freely without making contact with the fan shroud, please go back to step #52 and check that you provided adequate spacing between the adapter and the motor.
Also, if you use a lock tight type chemical to hold the aluminum nut in place, make sure it does not come in contact with any of the ABS plastic parts as it will soften and later destroy your fan over a period of time. If you opt to use such a chemical make sure it only comes in contact with ONLY the metal parts and wipe any excess away right away.
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61 - Socket rear is pre-tinned and filled with solder.
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62 - Wire is soldered to the 3.5mm socket.
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63 - Both wires soldered.
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64 - Heat shrink tubing is added for insulation.
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65 - The three sockets are connected to the motor wires on the ESC, while the two 3.5mm plugs are installed on the battery wire.
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66 - Heat shrink tubing is added to finish the sockets.
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67 - A good quality ESC is recommended
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68 - The battery harness is cut to 12" in length. The fuselage is shown in the rear to show how the run would fit, from the fan/motor location on the right to the center of the battery compartment on the left.
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69 - A Deans "Ultra-Plug" is soldered to the other end of the harness.
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70 - The entire assembly is connected and the fan is checked for balance.
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71 - Heat shrink is applied to the motor connector to insure they will not come loose.
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72 - Fan would not fit inside of the fuselage as the opening was not large enough.
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73 - The fan was positioned over the opening and a pencil was used to mark the rear wing saddle area.
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74 - You can see where it was hitting... DO NOT FORCE IT IN as you can crack the ductwork..
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75 - Mark made from previous setup is shown.
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76 - A Dremel with a cutting wheel is used to rough cut the area.
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77 - Then a Dremel with a drum sander is used to shape the opening.
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78 - The fan fits inside now and very little saddle was removed.
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79 - Fan shown completely inside of the fuselage.
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80 - Note the ends were also rounded, which "relieves" them and helps prevent cracking.
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81 - A Dremel with a sanding drum was used to even up the ducting.
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82 - NOTE: If you are not painting your model, skip the next six steps.
320 Grit wet/dry sandpaper was used to flatten the surface of the fuselage for good paint adhesion.
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83 - Once sanded, wash down the area to remove any excess paint.
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84 - The surface should still appear white, but "flattened" in color.
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85 - 320 grit sandpaper was used to "dry sand" the horizontal stab.
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86 - The wings were also sanded to allow for good paint adhesion.
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87 - All surfaces washed and shown now with that "flat white" look.
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88 - The tail assembly is temporarily connected to the fuselage using two of the bolts and small washer provided.
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89 - The tail shown installed and flush with the fuse at the top.
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90 - The elevator horn was placed on the elevator with its center 1/4" away from the fuselage side to allow for clevis clearance.
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91 - The elevator was drilled using a pin vise.
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92 - The bolts supplied in the kit are used to attach the horn to the elevator.
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93 - Excess bolt length is cut flush to the horn retainer.
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94 - A drop of medium CA is applied to the top of each bolt end.
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95 - Hinge shown installed.
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96 - Rod supplied in the kit was tried but it was too loose in the horn.
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97 - Preliminary check of tail alignment. It appears that mounting the tail and pushing it forward flush to the fuselage makes for a worry free install with no check needed.
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98 - Stab being marked for permanent installation.
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99 - Stab marks shown.
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100 - Plastic covering from the inside area was removed so that stab could be epoxied to the fuselage.
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101 - Plastic covering shown being removed.
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102 - Stab prepped for final install. Make sure you remove the top area and not the bottom.
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103 - Epoxy applied to stab area. The stab needs to be epoxied as the bolts cannot be tightened without crushing the balsa. You may try cutting the bolt area out and replacing with a plywood plank. This would allow for a "bolt on" stab.
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104 - The fuselage area was roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper and then both surfaces had epoxy applied.
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105 - The stab was bolted permanently in place with the leading edge pushed flush against the fuselage.
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106 - Horizontal stab installation completed.
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107 - Stab installed, rear view showing horn location.
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108 - Main wing spar, ready to install. I drew a center line on it for reference.
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109 - Wing components ready to go.
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110 - Root spar drilled with a 3/32 bit to add more strength once glued.
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111 - Epoxy added to main spar and root, then spar is installed.
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112 - Spar inserted up to center line.
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113 - 15 Minute Epoxy added to other wing root and exposed spar.
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114 - Wing halves joined and excess epoxy cleaned up with denatured alcohol.
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115 - Wing assembly laid flush on table to keep it aligned. Both halves were pressed down on the table to make their joint even, so incidence would be aligned.
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116 - Wing tip propped up at proper dihedral while epoxy sets.
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117 - Final fan assembly... cleaning up the wiring with ties.
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118 - Rear view of wiring tied down.
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119 - Final installation of the fan assembly.
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120 - The power wire was pulled across the top of the duct (inverted, so it's seen on the bottom.) This routed it right into the cockpit bay.
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121 - Heavy duty packing tape used to attach fan to duct.
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122 - Tape applied on one half from the opening.
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123 - Tape pushed down to inside area.
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124 - Tape trimmed and other end worked around.
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125 - End is tucked under the bottom.
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126 - A ruler taped to a stick was used to push the remaining tape around the top of the duct.
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127 - Fan assembly installed, showing ESC that will reside in the duct.
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128 - Top view showing fan connected to ductwork.
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129 - Battery wires that were routed into the cockpit compartment.
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130 - Battery harness shown with enough length to reach anywhere in the compartment.
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131 - A piece of poster board purchased at a craft store will be sued for the final ductwork. NOTE: Poster board cardboard is supplied with the kit.
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132 - Wiring removed from battery leads and routed inside fan so the exhaust duct can be fitted.
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133 - Initial piece of 10" x 15" cut from sheet.
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134 - Shape was rough cut...
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135 - ... then fit to rear of fan. This will take a while to fit and was a bit challenging due to the taper in the duct, so just take your time.
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136 - Final sheet ready for assembly. I used the first sheet to mark up and abuse, then cut a final pattern from the first sheet, that way there were no wrinkles in the duct.
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137 - The same heavy duty clear packing tape that was used to mount the fan was used to roll the tube.
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138 - A piece of aluminum tube was used to cut exit holes fro the ESC wires.
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139 - Holes cut, tube ready to install.
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140 - Duct tube folded in half for installation, then inserted from the rear.
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141 - ESC wires routed through the punched holes.
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142 - Packing tape used to hold the exhaust duct in place.
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143 - Exhaust duct installed
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144 - End of exhaust area trimmed even with the tail cone.
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145 - Exhaust finished.
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146 - The servo horn was installed and the EZ Connector supplied with the model was installed in the outer horn hole. The hole needed to be enlarged for the threads. Make sure it turns freely once installed and use Loktite on the threads.
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147 - Servo side is cleaned with acetone.
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148 - Mounting tape is applied to the servo side.
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149 - Servo is then installed on the sidewall. Make sure you clean this area with acetone before mounting the servo.
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150 - Elevator servo installation completed. Note that the washers supplied with the gold connector were not used as they would have caused binding on the servo arm when rotating.
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151 - Hole is opened on side of fuselage for the elevator control rod.
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152 - Hole shown below... NOTE: It was extended to 7/8" in length later on during the build. It is 3/32" wide and the bottom is 3/8" above the horizontal stab.
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153 - Clevis installed on a new 2-56 x 12" long pushrod.
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154 - Rod bent and shaped for opening.
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155 - Picture shows rod shape and points to bend.
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156 - End was slightly bent to align with the EZ Connector for the servo.
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157 - Rod final installation.
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158 - Pushrod installed.
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159 - Loktite added to EZ Connector set screw.
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160 - Turn on your radio, then center the servo, center the elevator and tighten the screw.
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161 - Inside of fuselage cleaned for receiver location.
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162 - Original receiver installed in the following location.
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163 - Originally the antenna was installed in a tube and installed partially up in the nose and the rest of the antenna out the back of the fuse. This was later found to produce glitching and changed.
NOTE: If you decide to install your antenna this way you must do a range check. We do not recommend you install your antenna this particular way for the Sniper.
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164 - Do not use the antenna tube if you have glitching problems and always range check
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165 - The rest of the antenna out the back of the fuse. This was later found to produce glitching and changed.
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166 - Tube shown in place...
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167 - ...and epoxied to the side of the fuselage
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168 - Y-Connector added for aileron servo wires... build completed.
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169 - Basic fuselage assembly completed.
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170 - Aileron servo area was soaked with thin CA to strengthen, then sanded smooth.
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171 - Area cleaned with denatured alcohol.
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172 - Servo temporarily fit to cut horn slot.
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173 - Servo wire holes opened up in the wing.
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174 - Servo plug removed and wires run through pre-cut channel.
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175 - Wire pulled throgh from aileron servo bay.
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176 - Plug re-installed on servo wires.
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177 - Servo arm installed.
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178 - Servo cleaned with acetone and double sided tape added.
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179 - Servos installed in both wings.
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180 - Aileron wires exiting wing.
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181 - Shaping the aileron pushrod. A Z-bend was used on one end.
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182 - A ruler was used to align the pushrod while the aileron horn was installed.
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183 - Horn bolts were trimmed flush.
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184 - Left aileron servo and pushrod assembly completed.
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185 - Installing the right side pushrod. Note the horn did need to be drilled to accept the pushrod.
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186 - Aileron control completed.
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187 - Tow hook made from extra rod and installed in pre-drilled location.
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188 - Wing bolts installed.
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189 - Aileron servos hooked up to the receiver.
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190 - Wing leading edge dowels plugged into front of fuselage.
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191 - Wing mounted to fuselage.
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192 - Wing assembled.
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193 - Cutting out the canopy. It was scored with a razor.
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194 - Canopy cut out along score marks.
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195 - Canopy sanded and shaped.
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196 - Canopy finished and ready to install.
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197 - Canopy placed on fuselage for size. It will be permanently mounted later.
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198 - HET-RC Sniper basic construction completed.
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199 - Elevator throws are as follows:
High Rates: UP 8mm / DOWN 6mm
Low Rates: UP 5.5mm / DOWN 4mm
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200 - Aileron Throws:
High Rates: LEFT/RIGHT 8mm / DOWN 6mm
Low Rates: LEFT/RIGHT 6mm / DOWN 4mm
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201 - The C/G (Center of Gravity) point is 90mm from the base of the leading edge of the wing.
You may opt to move it forward or back, but based on our findings 90mm is the best starting point.
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202 - Bottom painted flat white.
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203 - Started the top side using flat light sky blue.
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204 - Second color added... dark blue.
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205 - Model colors finished.
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206 - Painted the tail cone with "Burnt Metal".
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207 - Tail cone finished.
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208 - Canopy /Cockpit Build:
NOTE: If you are going to place the batteries in the wing saddle area, the canopy can be simply glued to the fuselage with canopy glue. The following steps will show how to build a simple removable canopy.
A base plate was traced onto 1/8" balsa.
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209 - A center line was drawn where the canopy bend is located.
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210 - A saw was used to cut a "bend slot" ... do not cut all the way through.
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211 - Balsa cockpit base placed on the fuselage.
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212 - Cockpit held down in place while using thin CA to glue the joint.
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213 - Cockpit angle finished.
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214 - The seam was filled all the way across and the angle was measured to make sure it fit the cockpit.
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215 - Beveling the front edge.
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216 - Cockpit plate fit to the canopy.
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217 - Drawing a back plate.
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218 - Plate cut from 1/8" ply.
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219 - Plate beveled and checked for fit.
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220 - Back plate pressed into place at correct angle.
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221 - Back plate glued to cockpit.
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222 - Plate glued then canopy painted with thin CA.
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223 - 1/4" Think piece of balsa added to rear.
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224 - I used a Bob Violett canopy mount, but you could also make them from 3/32" ply using the shape below as a reference.
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225 - Canopy plate slotted. Fuselage slotted with a Dremel cutting wheel.
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226 - Canopy mount installed.
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227 - Measurement showing location of the slots.
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228 - Canopy mounted and held in place, then drill used to bore through the canopy and fuselage.
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229 - Installing an alignment pin from 1/8" dowel.
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230 - Pin installed.
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231 - A piece of 1/4" x 1/2" balsa cut and fit to opening below, lightly wedged in place. CA applied to the top only.
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232 - Canopy set in place, lifting the rear, pushing all the way back, then dropping the rear on the balsa piece from the previous step.
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233 - Dropping rear forced the piece to glue on canopy for a perfect fit. This piece of balsa will insure the canopy will not twist under stress of flight.
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234 - Cockpit painted.
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246 - Cockpit detailing was done to model an F-5
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235 - Canopy Glue used to mount the canopy to the cockpit. Tape is used to hold it in place until it dries.
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236 - Cockpit plate installed on canopy.
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237 - Canopy installation completed. It's a simple way to mount it and the canopy should not come off during flight as it needs to move forward and up to be removed.
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238 - HET-RC Super Sniper ARF Model finished (FRONT VIEW)
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239 - (FRONT / TOP VIEW)
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240 - (REAR VIEW)
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241 - (RIGHT SIDE)
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242 - (LEFT SIDE)
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243 - (NOSE PROFILE)
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244 - (RIGHT ANGLED VIEW)
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245 - (TOP VIEW)
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247 - The completed HET-RC Sniper from Warbird-RC
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