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Last Updated: January 10, 2008 - 09:28:40 PM |
The HET-RC F-104 Starfighter Minifan EDF as it comes from Markos at Warbirds-RC
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Opening the box reveals a well packed and rather long model
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Every that comes with the ARF is shown
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Shown is a closeup of the wood and hardware included with the kit
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The F-104 Starfighter fuselage assembly
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Construction begins with wing preparation and installation. Remove the tabs from your servo and place it over each opening. Mark the outer shape and enlarge the opening width
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Install each wing and check that it is fully seated on the wing saddle. If it will not seat flush against the fuselage, sand the fuselage side of the spar, then take a little off the end of the spar until the wing sits flush
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With each wing installed, check the trailing edge for alignment and proper incidence. One wing was off in this kit and needed adjusted
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When sanding the spar, make sure you sand only enough on the inside so that it remains centered from top to bottom in the slot, then perform the remaining sanding at the tip. Use a sanding block to keep each end straight or the wing can rock in its position
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To adjust the wing, use a small round file to elongate the wing dowel pin hole in the fuselage. Remove a little at a time and check alignment. Continue to elongate until the rear of the wing is centered and runs evenly across the top and bottom of the fuselage wing saddle
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A properly aligned wing is shown
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To tighten the dowel in the new hole, drill a small hole above or below the wing depending on which side you had to sand the slot
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A toothpick is added and allows a snug fit of the dowel pin into the elongated fuselage dowel pin hole
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With the wing installed, apply some masking tape even with the rear of the wing
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Sand this area up to the tape to remove paint and allow for better glue purchase
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The rest of the wing saddle is sanded with 60-100 grit. Be careful not to remove too much, which will weaken the saddle
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Masking tape is applied around the wing saddles for both wings
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Trim the tape flush to the gluing surface of the wing saddle
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Add a fresh piece of masking even with the rear of each wing
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The wing area is shown ready for epoxy
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Apply masking tape flush to the end of each wing. This will catch any epoxy spill over and keep the wings clean
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Drill some 1/8" holes in each wing saddle, spaced about an inch apart and inside the glue area. This will allow rivots to form and add strength to the joint
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Mix some epoxy and set some of the mix aside, then add some fiberglass mil to thicken the remaining solution. Fifteen minute epoxy was used for each wing installation
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Apply the regular epoxy to the wing spar slot in one wing
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Apply epoxy to the spar in the area that will be inserted into the wing
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Install the spar in the wing and clean up the remaining epoxy. Note that the epoxy may "hydraulic" in the hole, so push and pull the spar a few times to work it in so it is seated flush
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Use a stick to apply the thickened epoxy mix to the wing saddle
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Apply regular epoxy to the exposed spar area
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Apply regular epoxy to the wing spar area
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Apply regular epoxy to the remainder of the wing in a thin film so it will soak into the spar
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Install the wing on the spar and flush to the fuselage
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Use denatured alcohol and paper towels to remove excess epoxy
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Wing is shown installed. Allow some time for the epoxy to set
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Drill holes in the second wing saddle as shown
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Install regular epoxy in the wing spar slot on the fuselage
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Apply regular epoxy to the spar and install as shown. Make sure it hydraulics and bottoms out so it sits flush inside the fuselage, then clean off the excess
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Apply thickened epoxy to the remaining wing saddle
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Use a stick to apply regular epoxy to the exposed wing spar
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Apply regular epoxy to the wing spar slot and wing spar as shown
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Install the second wing on the fuselage
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Remove excess epoxy with alcohol and paper towels
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Allow the epoxy on the second wing to set
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Remove the tape from each fuselage saddle and wing
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Wing installation shown completed
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Check the aileron servo wire holes and clean with a short piece of rolled up sandpaper if necessary. Install the aileron servos and make sure that the horn is spaced far enough away from the wall so it does not rub. Remove the servos and set them aside
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Measure the opening of the servo well and add 1/4" overhang to each of the four sides
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Make some servo hatches by cutting two pieces of 1/32" ply to the dimensions you just measured
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Apply a drop of thin CA to the bottom corners of each hatch, then sand smooth once dried
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Apply CA to the top of each hatch and allow it to soak in, then sand them to a plastic like finish and paint if necessary
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Stack both hatches and hold them together with masking tape, then drill 1/16" holes at each corner, about 1/8" in from the sides
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Use tape to mark the location where the hatches must be placed so they overlap the opening about 1/4" on each of the four sides. Drill 1/16" holes into the wing using the previously drilled holes in the ply as guides
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Mark on the inside one hatch for the left and one for the right and also draw an arrow on each hatch to show forward placement
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Open up the holes on both hatches with a 3/32" drill. Sand the surface of the holes smooth if necessary
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Clean the mounting surface of each wing servo with Acetone. HS-81MG metal gear servos were used for the Ailerons
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Connect each servo to a receiver or servo tester and use a horn to make sure the servos are centered
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Remove each horn, then cut away the unused side of each horn
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Install the horn on each servo and make a left and a right assembly. Install each servo temporarily in the wing and make sure the horn is centered and pointed straight up. Even though the horns may be centered outside the wing, the servos themselves wind up being tilted downward toward the front of the wing, so you may have to move the horn back toward the Aileron a notch for it to be centered in the well. The servo horns need to be centered in the well or they will not have full range of motion!
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Cut two pieces of servo tape and install them on the respective bottoms of each servo. Install the horn screw in each servo
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Run the servo wire for one wing through the hole into the fuselage area
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Remove the backing from the servo tape, then install the servo in place, making sure the horn has clearance and does not bind on the side of the well opening
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Position the hatch in place, then slide it upward and mark a 3/16" slot on the hatch for a horn opening
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With the opening drawn, cut out the ply and use a file and sandpaper to clean up the opening
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Position the hatch over its mounting holes and check the fit of the horn, then sand as necessary. The opening needs to be about 3/4" long
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Install the hatch with some #2 button head screws
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Run the other servo's wires through the opening and into the fuselage
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Remove the backing from the servo tape
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Install the servo in place, making sure the horn has clearance and does not bind on the side of the well opening
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Install the hatch and cut out the slot in the same way you did the first hatch
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Install the second wing hatch and check for horn clearance. Both hatches are shown installed
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Measure and mark the center on each of the Aileron hinges
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Draw a line down the center of each hinge
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Install each hing into the wing up to the line. Open the slots with a razor if necessary and position the hinges at least 1/2" in from each end
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Instal an Aileron, making sure there is clearance on both ends. Make sure the hinges remain square in the slots and are not pushed into the fuselage
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Tilt the Aileron downward so there is enough deflection, then apply thin CA to each hinge from the top and bottom. The CA should wick into the slots
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Install the second Aileron, making sure there is clearance on both ends
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Tilt the second Aileron downward so there is enough deflection, then apply thin CA to each hinge from the top and bottom. The CA should wick into the slots
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Install a clevis on each of the two pushrods and center them on the threads
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Drill the Aileron servo horn out of necessary so the clevis has a nice and tight fit
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Install the clevis on a servo horn
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Install the second clevis on the other servo horn
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Remove the tape from maufacturing that is holding the hatch in place
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Remove the bottom hatch
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Use a piece of tape that is placed parallel to the servo and place the pushrod parallel to the tape
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Install the horn as shown on the inside of the wire. Use a drill to make a 3/32" hole
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Install a screw in the servo horn. It is a good idea to pre-thread the servo horn caps by using a screw to cut threads in each cap
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Install the horn in place as shown
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Use the pushrod to keep the horn straight, then tack it in place with CA
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Drill the second hole for the horn screw
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Install the second screw and check pushrod alignment
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Install the cap that you pre-threaded in place as shown. Do not overtighten the screws
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Use tape to align the second pushrod and drill the holes for the second aileron horn
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Install the screws in the aileron horn
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Position and install the horn in the Aileron and screw on the cap. Be careful not to overtighten
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Clamp the end of the Aileron so it is even with the wing
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Connect a servo to a receiver or servo tester, then center the servo
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Mark the location of the Aileron horn hole on the pushrod
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Begin making a Z-Bend at the mark
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Finish the Z-Bend and trim off the excess pushrod. Clean up the end tip with a grinder
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Open up the Aileron horn with a drill so the pushrod will fit
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Install a pushrod on the Aileron horn
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Clip the clevis in place on the servo horn. A piece of fuel tubing is used as a safety retainer on the clevis
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Clamp the end of the second Aileron so it is even with the wing
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Connect a servo to a receiver or servo tester, center the servo, then mark the location of the Aileron horn hole on the pushrod
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Make another Z-Bend at the end of the pushrod as you did with the first Aileron
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Drill the Aileron horn and fit the pushrod, then clip the clevis to the second servo horn. Completed Aileron installation is shown
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Use a grinder to carefully cut the remaining screw threads flush to the plastic cap Do not overheat by cutting to hard or you can deform the cap. Do a little and allow the screw to cool
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Apply some thick CA to the top of the threads to prevent snagging or cutting
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Mark center lines down each of the four Elevator hinges
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Install the Horizontal Stab in the slot from the rear until it is flush with the vertical stab joint
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IMPORTANT: Make sure the Stab is perpendicular to the vertical stab before proceding. Use a pencil to mark the stab and fuselage at all points where they join and mark both the top and bottom sides
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Remove the stab and cut just inside the pencil mark to remove the excess covering material. Do this to both the top and bottom
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Lightly sand inside the pencil marks on the vertical stab where the horizontal stab will reside for a good glue purchase
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Rough up the top and bottom of the vertical stab slot, taking care not to change the shape of the slots
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Install the horsizontal stab and measure at the rear both sides to insure it is centered
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Tape the stab even to the joint to catch excess epoxy
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Finish by taping the vertical stab above and below the horizintal as shown
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Place the model on a flat surface and use tape to hold the center in pace
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Run masking tape over the exhaust tube and slightly forward, then pull tight so the pivots back and the rear is flush with the surface
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Use a square to rotate the model and adjust the vertical stab so it is perpendicular to the surface
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Remove the horizontal stab
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Use 15 minute epoxy so you have enough time to adjust and apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the vertical stab slot, as well as the forward sides of the stab
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Apply epoxy to the horizontal stab on the forward slot and rear exposed surfaces
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Install the horzintal stab on the fuselage
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Clean any excess epoxy with paper towels and alcohol
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Insure the rear of the stab is centered and the same distance from the vertical stab on both sides
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Use a ruler and make sure the horizontal stab is parallel. Adjust if necessary before the epoxy sets
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Horizontal stab sown installed
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Install the hinges in the horizontal stab up to the center line
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Cut off the Z-Bend on the pushrod wire, then make a very small loop and a half with needle nose pliers
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Loop shown, which should be just round enough for the wire to pass through
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Cut a 2 1/2" piece of wire from the other end and install it in the loop so that 1" protrudes from a side
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Use soldering flux, good solder such as Deans and a high power gun and solder the joint. Make sure the short wire remains perpendicular to the long wire before the solder hardens
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Solder joint shown completed
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